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Prybar

5.10a, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 19 votes
FA: Billy Smallen and Carl Dec, 11/3/2013
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Parley's Canyon > Bungalow

Description

The third route from the left on the Lower Bungalow Wall. Moderate climbing takes you to a distinct crux at the second bolt. The difficulty stays consistent as the fun climbing takes you up a bulge to the anchors.

Location

15 feet right of The Dugout.

Approach the Lower Bungalow Wall via one of two options:

• The regular approach follows the approach directions for the Upper Bungalow Wall and then makes use of a fixed rope to descend the gully below Rusty's Staircase. The fixed rope is located towards the highway from the wall at the bottom of the downclimb.

• The lower approach is accessed via the old highway that runs from the base of the Iron Curtain Wall and ends after the Bungalow Wall. Walk up canyon past the Riptide Wall, past some scree piles, until you are almost at the Bungalow Wall. A faint trail heading up and right will take you to the Lower Bungalow Wall. Be wary not to grab loose rock as you reach the wall, the rock is actively exfoliating.

NOTE: The routes at the Lower Bungalow Wall should NOT be considered top accessible--the hill above is eroding, with much loose rock to kick down on someone below or to slip on.

Protection

6 bolts plus two anchor bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the bottom
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Lower Bungalow Wall Topo
[Hide Photo] Lower Bungalow Wall Topo