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Routes in The Bungalow

Car Jack (variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dugout, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gas Hike S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Incident Management (variation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Learner's Permit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moped S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prybar S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumble Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Shovels S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Noise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Carl Dec and Billy Smallen, 10/27/2013
Page Views: 984 total, 23/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Apr 18, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The second route from the left on the Lower Bungalow Wall. A series of fun problems will keep you interested and on your toes!

Location

10 feet down and climbers right on the wall from Two Shovels. The first moves will take you past a small roof.

Approach the Lower Bungalow Wall via one of two options:

• The regular approach follows the approach directions for the Upper Bungalow Wall and then makes use of a fixed rope to descend the gully below Rusty's Staircase. The fixed rope is located towards the highway from the wall at the bottom of the downclimb.

• The lower approach is accessed via the old highway that runs from the base of the Iron Curtain Wall and ends after the Bungalow Wall. Walk up canyon past the Riptide Wall, past some scree piles, until you are almost at the Bungalow Wall. A faint trail heading up and right will take you to the Lower Bungalow Wall. Be wary not to grab loose rock as you reach the wall, the rock is actively exfoliating.

NOTE: The routes at the Lower Bungalow Wall should NOT be considered top accessible--the hill above is eroding, with much loose rock to kick down on someone below or to slip on.

Protection

5 bolts plus two anchor bolts. The fixed rope in the gully can be used for a belay anchor.

Photos

cdec
SLC, UT
  5.9
cdec   SLC, UT
  5.9
Use the fixed rope in the gully for a belay anchor! Jun 17, 2017
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
A belay bolt would be great here. Nov 15, 2016