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Routes in The Bungalow

Car Jack (variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dugout, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Gas Hike S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Incident Management (variation) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Learner's Permit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moped S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prybar S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Road Rage S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rumble Strip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Shovels S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Noise S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Carl Dec and Billy Smallen, 4/09/2014
Page Views: 1,208 total, 27/month
Shared By: Billy Smallen on Apr 18, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs the leftmost side of the Lower Bungalow Wall. Start on the flat portion of the descent gully and step onto the face via a small ledge/stance. Traverse right to the first bolt, then head up the flake. After the second bolt head left and then up to the anchors, clipping two more bolts along the way.

Location

The leftmost route on the Lower Bungalow Wall, this climb starts from the flat landing on the fixed rope approach from the Upper Bungalow Wall.

Approach the Lower Bungalow Wall via one of two options:

• The regular approach follows the approach directions for the Upper Bungalow Wall and then makes use of a fixed rope to descend the gully below Rusty's Staircase. The fixed rope is located towards the highway from the wall at the bottom of the downclimb.

• The lower approach is accessed via the old highway that runs from the base of the Iron Curtain Wall and ends after the Bungalow Wall. Walk up canyon past the Riptide Wall, past some scree piles, until you are almost at the Bungalow Wall. A faint trail heading up and right will take you to the Lower Bungalow Wall. Be wary not to grab loose rock as you reach the wall, the rock is actively exfoliating.

NOTE: The routes at the Lower Bungalow Wall should NOT be considered top accessible--the hill above is eroding, with much loose rock to kick down on someone below or to slip on.

Protection

5 bolts plus two anchor bolts. The fixed rope in the gully can be used for a belay anchor. A shovel or two on your harness adds style points!

EDIT: A new bolt by the FA party has been added since the route was put up, making the beginning more reasonable.

Photos

cdec
SLC, UT
 
cdec   SLC, UT
 
I added a bolt to the start which has changed since we put the route up. Should make getting off the ground a bit more reasonable.

I tried to find a spot for a belay bolt but the rock down low won't have it.

Use the rope in the descent gully for a belay anchor. Not great but it will work. Jun 17, 2017
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended if 5.8 is near your limit.
A belay bolt would make everyone feel safer too, if anyone brings some bolting gear up there. Nov 15, 2016
Zandy
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
Zandy   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8-
This has a fairly committing move right off the deck, before you can clip the first bolt. The fall would be really awkward due to the bottom of the scree chute being there and a steep tumble below that. Nov 15, 2016