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Crankenstein

5.11- PG13, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: TR - Dave Barone, 09/17/08
New York > Powerlinez > b. The Swath > Stockade Wall

Description

Thoughtful crux sequence, and lots of other interesting moves.

Start on the left of the two shallow corners, up through its curve, and on to the top.

warning: The rock around this route and sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

To the leff of the three cracks on the main (left-side) wall are two shallow left-facing inside corners, which start roughly vertical and then curve left -- the left one curves to over to nearly horizontal.

Protection

normal NY style Trad rack, with emphasis on small pieces.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Stockade Wall with Topo overlay. Tower Wall is up and to the left of this photo.<br>
<br>
1. Crankenstein, 5.11-<br>
2. Dave's A-Peelin', 5.9<br>
3. Once Was Choss But Now Was Found, 5.8<br>
4. Zetastein, 5.10<br>
5. Stockade Scramble, 5.3
[Hide Photo] The Stockade Wall with Topo overlay. Tower Wall is up and to the left of this photo. 1. Crankenstein, 5.11- 2. Dave's A-Peelin', 5.9 3. Once Was Choss But Now Was Found, 5.8 4. Zetastein, 5.1…
Climbers on Crankenstein
[Hide Photo] Climbers on Crankenstein
Andrew heading up Crankenstein
[Hide Photo] Andrew heading up Crankenstein

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kenr
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] Start is just a few feet left of the three left-leaning cracks (the cracks of Once Was Choss But Now Is Found and Dave's A-Peelin')

First fifteen feet are pretty tricky to work out, especially finding a less strenuous way to do the crux move. Above that is fun climbing, just not so hard. (If only it were longer).

We worked it on Top-Rope with a long static line to a big rock perched on a wide ledge behind and about fifteen feet higher than the main ledge at the top of the route. Jun 18, 2014