Type: Sport, 950 ft, 9 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 729 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

A relatively (1999) new route that gains the highest point of Mallo Firè. Bolted top down, the protection is more generous than your average Riglos clip-up. Fun climbing over good rock, with some steep sections but no "panzas!".
Start in a grey streak 10 minutes or so uphill (right) of the main south face of El Firè. The first two pitches 5.10a and b, could be combined using long runners. Above this the climb gets progressively harder. The third 5.10c pitch leads to a great 40m pitch with a 5.10d crux at the top. Awesome, fun climbing the whole way.
The fifth pitch is the first (and easiest) of the two, 5.11b pitches. Good climbing with a few steep moves below the chains. Next up, a short but good 5.11a pitch. Pitch 7 was the crux for me and has the potential for the leader to fall on the belayer after the first bolt (though this can be aided). A bit more trickery above gets to a belay. The 5.10c pitch above is not to be underestimated, as it is steep, long and continuous. One more steep pitch gets you to the summit.
So much good climbing on this one.

Location

On the south side of El Firè. Starts right of the massive chimney on "Galletas." Follow the bolted grey streak.
It is possible but rappel the route with 2 ropes....but having done this, I would recommend walking off.

Protection

15 quickdraws. Helmet. All anchors bolted.

Photos

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