Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 340 total · 6/month
Shared By: Christian Prellwitz on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Start with both hands matched on the obvious smiley face crimp. Find a foot that works for you. Pull off the ground and pop to a hidden incut crimp.

Mantel into the scoop using some finesse or power. Or a bit of both.

Once established in the scoop, finish up the easy slab.

Finger size will play a large role in how difficult this feels. With my fat fingers, it felt solid at v8.

Location

This problem is one of the first climbs you see when walking up from the parking. It is located just to the left of where the two boulders touch.

Protection

As there is a rock protruding from the base of the climb, a few pads are ideal to flatten out the landing. Though the boulder behind you is intimidating during the mantel, I've never seen anyone actually hit it and falls generally go away from it.

Photos

Kent Dunham
Alberta
  V8
Kent Dunham   Alberta
  V8
Crux for me was working my fingers into the start holds. Think I spent more time doing that than sending the route. That said, it was a lot of fun, the dish inside the scoop is classic, weird Joe's. Jan 2, 2017