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Routes in Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face

Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bryant Gumbel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck, Duck, Goose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gander Slander TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grandpa Gander T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granny Goose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jane Pauley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jon Crowley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mongoose T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Mother Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Pump Up the Volume T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
To Air Is Human T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Uncle Fester T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whistling Sphincter TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: Unknown, put probably some of the usual suspects in the late 70's
Page Views: 315 total, 7/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is most likely some sort of old mixed aid line or TR. There are hammer marks under the roof from pin whacking and I think I remember a pin or two protecting the low crux. It climbs pretty well with thought provoking moves until the above the roof crux slaps you in the face. Rock down low is not that great, but gets better as you go.

Location

Between Left Hand of Darkness and the Right Hand of Darkness. Really all this route does is straighten out the Right Hand of Darkness. Not sure why that thing (RHD) is crawling all over the wall with this direct route available. Scramble down to climbers right to descend.

Protection

Thin stuff down low, if you can get any, and then sm-med cams for the easy top out. The anchor takes all sorts of not that great gear from 1/2" to 4". You will need a long extendo runner to set up a good TR.

Photos

Alex Bury
Ojai, CA
  5.11c
Alex Bury   Ojai, CA
  5.11c
Makes for a fun TR. Good technique down low will help save juice for the crux. Nov 2, 2016