Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall, left side

Amandla S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Batskins T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bwana Dik T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
City Park T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
City Park Bolt Ladder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dwarf Tossing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Frog Pond T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Frog Prince T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Horse Power T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Godzilla T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Horse T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Iron Horse P2 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Japanese Gardens T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Model Worker T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Numbah Ten P3 T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Park Ranger T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Princely Ambitions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sagittarius T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slow Children T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stern Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sushi Farmer T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R
Tadpole T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tantric Bazooka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tommy's Sandbox T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,112 total, 25/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The original "Power Horse" combined Iron Horse up to anchor #1 (5.11d, gear) with the 2nd part of Amandla (5.13c, bolts). The one flaw on this climb is that the anchors are arbitrarily placed on the arete, and the pitch has no logical reason to stop there. It feels a bit weird and lacking to end at the anchor on the arete. If you clip the anchor and climb farther up the arete, and then stem out right, clip one bolt, and pass the roof (on the left, or on the right as per upper Iron Horse) it makes this a much better (and slightly harder) pitch than the original. I'm calling the complete version "Full Horse Power" because it has a nice ring to it, but it's really just the logical completion of power horse.

You need a 70m to lower off, but with a shorter rope you can stop at an intermediate and do a second lower.

The hardest sequence is probably the initial span and transfer onto the arete, and the redpoint crux is just after the original Amandla anchor, on the arete. That section is pretty height dependent, but not trivial even if you're tall. Once established on the upper arete under the roof, a series of amazing holds, kneebars, and a couple small pieces of gear get you to the top via rightward or leftward climbing.

Maybe .12c to the original anchors, and .13a for the full? I know a strong local who has sent 5.14 on bolts and gear who says the arete itself is 5.13something. Or Index .11d.

Location

Starts via Iron Horse, the thin pin-scarred crack with 2-pitons equalized by a piece of cord.

Protection

Whatever gear you want for climbing to the first anchor on Iron Horse, and then 5 draws.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments