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Routes in Riglos

Alberto Rabadá o Murciana S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Anorexia S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chopper S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Directa as cimas S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Espolón de Adamello S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiesta De Los Biceps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mosquitos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Normal Route (Vía Normal) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Normal al Puro S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 800 ft, 8 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 496 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rick Ziegler on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Located on Mallo Pisón, this is the closest big mallo to town. Murciana is the most popular route on this formation and for good reason. Originally done over 12 days in 1976 and dedicated to Spanish climbing hero, Alberto Rabadá. This has been retro bolted and is a classic sport climb.
After a gear and bolt protected first pitch, several beautiful, steep and pumpy 5.10 bolt protected pitches lead to a big ledge. The 11+ (or 5.10/A0) crux pitch is next with hard bouldery moves to get over a bulges. Two bulgy pitches get to the top. As with most Riglos routes, all bulges can be aided at 5.10/A0. However, the second should have prussiks ready if they fall on the last pitch bulge.

Location

South face of El Pisón. Look for the white streak right of center. Starts in a right facing dihedral.
The standard descent is rappelling the east shoulder of El Pisón (some 35m raps). Then following a wire to the descent gully (more 35m raps and some via ferrata style downclimbing). Be careful of climbers below. There's plenty of loose rock.

Protection

15 draws. 70m rope (for descent) or 2*60m. A few cams for pitch 1 (BD 0.5 and smaller is fine)
Bolted anchors.

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