Standard Route

The standard route to the summit of Cayambe. This is the highest tropical glacier in the world, offering a unique mountaineering experience on one of Ecuador’s most iconic volcanoes. The standard route takes most parties 5-8 hours. Clouds of moisture rising from the jungle often obscure the mountain by mid-late morning, making for challenging whiteout conditions. It is recommended to start around midnight in order to reach the summit before the weather moves in.

From the Oleas Ruales Refuge, start up the rock ridge to the left. In good conditions, take the right fork and follow a rocky trail past a short scramble, continuing up a well trodden footpath to the toe of the glacier. The left fork is sandier and less efficient to ascend, but is a good option during high winds. Either way, from the base of the glacier, ascend easy snow with occasional crevasses. After a few hours, you’ll arrive at a steeper section below the summit, where more significant crevasse difficulty is often encountered. A short lower angle ridge leads to the true summit at 18,996’.

When you descend back to the rocks, take the trail to skiers right for the sandier, but less steep descent trail which avoids the rocky scramble. Breakfast will likely be available at when you reach the hut, offering a great way to replenish and celebrate!

Standard glacier travel