PRINT: Rock Climb L'Amour des Toits, The New River Gorge Region

L'Amour des Toits

5.12b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Eric Hörst 10/2001
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bubba City > 07. French Wall

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This thing is steep! Manage your pump well, or you may find yourself screaming "Putain!" at the top!

It's a good idea to stick clip the second bolt, if possible. The moves and the clip are a little tricky, and a fall wouldn't be fun. Carry long slings to reduce drag. As of 4/13/14, there was a carabiner on the 4th bolt for ease of cleaning.

Location

Steepest route up the middle of the wall

Protection

6 bolts to bolted anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Calf-lete Osborne
Huntsville, AL

Got on this thing three times on 6/4/22. Second attempt I fell ripping out a softball size block. Third go I kicked off the equivalent of a cereal box worth of rock. The movement was fun-ish but this thing is just dangerously chossy and wouldn't recommend anyone getting on it. I wouldn't belay someone on it.

Also if you can't stick clip the second bolt, I wouldn't get on it. It's a not chill move to get to the second bolt and if you fall you will likely slam into the wall pretty hard and injure yourself, considering where the first is located. Very poor bolting job and is a candidate to have the bolts chopping or moved around significantly. Jun 6, 2022