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Routes in Insanity Wall

......Never Was, Never Will Be S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Airing of Grievances, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Anger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bulimia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Chicken Tenders S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dr. Jekyll S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fangoria S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Festivus, for the Rest of Us S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Global Warming S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
He Ain't My Brother S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heart is Deceitful Above All Things, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Huevo's Locos S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
I Stepped in BS S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Identify Crisis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Illusionary Mentor S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Imaginary Friend S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Insane Tree Hugger S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lenora's Wrath Kept 'em Lawful S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
More Fun Than Bubblewrap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Mr. Hyde S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pave the world S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pollution / Erosion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psycho Killer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: Tommy Blackwell, Evan Jackson, Sean O' Grady
Page Views: 210 total · 4/month
Shared By: LovePas on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Route was first led on trad in 1998 by Mike Klein. It's a roof crack that can be plugged up by big gear. However, there are now three bolts to protect it...I give it a PG-13 rating because it is mildly runout between bolts 2 and 3. And if you blow the clip, this route will hurt you pretty bad! If you happen to carry some hand size cams (maybe #2 or #3, you maybe able to protect the mild runout). But to make it fun, just run it out...In Hogge's guidebook, it states the climb starts to left on a chimney up to the ledge (dirty too) and walk back the roof, or you can direct start on face below ledge for a bouldery start up to ledge. Once you reach back of the cave, find first bolt, and either lay back and traverse left or hand jam across...I've done both and they are both effective. Crux is definitely pulling the lip...there are a few techniques you can employ to reach anchors...I hand jammed and it hurt like hell...the stone is sharp inside those cracks. Though the route is only 20-25' up from the ground to anchors...it climbs longer since the routes starts at the back of the roof.

Location

Very far right end of Insanity wall. The roof cave is immediately left of the Dreamer's wall. Route is less than 5 minutes from parking lot.

Protection

3 bolts + anchors

Photos

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