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Routes in Redemption Crag

Diagon Alley T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Karkus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Redemption Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Alley T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slytherin TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown face climb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 280 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tyler Auer on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description [Suggest Change]

Redemption Crack follows a diagonal crack from the ground to top of Redemption Crag. This climb gets harder and harder as you make your way to the top. The crux is the final move, a step up from precarious footholds to a good ledge. A lack of handholds makes this move more challenging than the rest of the climb.

Location [Suggest Change]

Note: this is not the same place as Redemption Rock. To find it, park in the redemption rock parking area and follow the Midstate trail north. It will cross the road and go uphill for about 5 mins until you run into the side of the crag. Follow the hikers' trail to the base.

Redemption crack is the obvious crack in the center of the wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A top rope can be set up from pine trees at top.

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JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Thanks for the post. Haven't climbed this in years but I remember it being quite fun! Apr 13, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Lead this today. Gear is totally G-rated and route is better than most of the shorter routes at Crow Hill IMHO (except for Tom's Dilemma, of course). The crux before the top-out is made much easier with a perfect crimp on the left. Apr 7, 2015
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
A great variation is to start on the face and climb straight up to the crux of the crack via the small, left-facing corner. Fairly sustained 5.7 with good gear and perfect stone. Apr 24, 2018

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