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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 55 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,167 total, 26/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the BEST and only multi-pitch route in Rifle! If you climb in Rifle a lot, you gotta check this rig out. The second pitch gets my vote for the BEST 5.12 in the canyon!

From Sexy Beast, head right until you see the first couple bolts and an obvious roof of absolute choss.

P1. To get to the best 5.12 in Rifle, you have to climb the worst 5.12 as well. Maybe that why this route is so classic, you get a taste of everything. Climb super steep 12a with a hard lip encounter. A two bolt anchor with a nice stance is just above the roof.

P2. Climb left off the anchor and then trend right following nice 5.10 features. I use long slings on the bottom to help with the rope drag for up higher. Pass an anchor and tackle a crux section to some nice pocket rests. There is amazing grey limestone with techy moves all the way to the anchor. This is as close as Rifle will ever get to the Verdon. Haha.

Rap with an 80 meter rope.

Protection

Draws.

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