Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Spectrum Wall

Battle of the Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Broken Blade, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Central Limit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chiquito pero Picon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Corner Exit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infrared Heart S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Over and Back S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phosphorescent S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sampler, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thief, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Joe Shiefman, Joe Kreidel
Page Views: 868 total, 19/month
Shared By: JoeS on Apr 9, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start laybacking from the bottom of the prominent right-facing corner located near the middle of the wall, just left of Infrared Heart. Avoid the large chockstone wedged inside the back of the crack. We were able to get it to move a little by jumping on one of the corners, but were unable to dislodge it with a crowbar. Follow the corner until a point near the top where one has to step right onto the face. Follow face straight up for a few more bolts to the anchors. Although th route is consistent in difficulty, the last part is the crux

Protection

10 bolts

Photos

Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
 
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
 
Not trying to sound like a purist or complaining that the bolts should be chopped or anything because no one would want to carry a rack for a 10a to a sport crag (except apparently me), but if carrying gear around is your thing I think its worth it for a fun easy gear lead. Standard rack, although I brought a #4 up for the start. Doesn't look like much, but I thought it was pretty fun! Oct 30, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
  5.10a
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
  5.10a
The moves we felt warranted a 10a rating were the last 15 feet or so of the route, face climbing above the crack to the anchors. Maybe you found an easier path than we did, as frequently happens with new climbs.

I'm glad to hear people are getting out here, and appreciate all the input and feedback. Aug 18, 2014
dhlesser
  5.8-
dhlesser  
  5.8-
Maybe I'm not doing it right, but I just don't see the 10.a rating. I'm not comfortable leading above a 9, but I lead this without breaking a sweat (we got lost and didn't know the ratings). I'd put it around a 7+/8. I did use the left side of the corner a decent bit, so maybe that's cheating? Aug 18, 2014
Jimbo
  5.10a
Jimbo  
  5.10a
Climbs way better than it looks.
You guys have gone more darkside than EFR and I.
Though hiking out in the mid day sun I was glad I wasn't hauling a rack. Jun 17, 2014