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Routes in Spectrum Wall

Battle of the Bulge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Broken Blade, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Central Limit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chiquito pero Picon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Corner Exit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Infrared Heart S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Over and Back S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Phosphorescent S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 66 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sampler, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thief, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Joe Kreidel / Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 84 total, 2/month
Shared By: Joe Kreidel on Apr 8, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Starts with two bolts of hand jamming and stemming in a textbook dihedral. Two bolts will lead you a large ledge where you can shake, clip the high third bolt, and ponder the arête above. Slap, slope, crimp and hook your way up the arête, finishing just right of The Sampler.

Original rated 12b, but downrated after easier beta was discovered by a clever Canadian. So even though the rating is 11b (maybe it will change with more ascents), it may feel much harder unless you find the right beta - read comments below for a little of that beta.

With the downrating, I should also add a bolt above the second bolt. I left it a bit runout there, with the original 12b grade in mind. The climbing is quite easy, but there is ground fall potential. If the climb is going to be called 11b, I should add the bolt.

Location

Starts in dihedral 10 feet right of The Sampler

Protection

6 bolts and lower biners
Jimbo  
Murdock and I also looked at that crack. Why not just bolt it. No more dark side than the others.
I'm with Canada, I don't want to haul a rack out there for 35 feet of crack. Jun 17, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Unless lots of people disagree, I don't think the bolts need to be moved. Canada Eric clipped all bolts just fine with his beta, so it is safe to climb that way, and I don't like the idea of moving them left to force people to stay left.

Glad you guys enjoyed the route! Apr 27, 2014
EWod  
True Eric. Keep the bolts where they are, and put a description for the Canadian Thief variation. Staying on the Face/Arete feels like a 12b to me, and it's such a good climb that way. Apr 27, 2014
Sounds like some gym tape might be needed! Maybe they can adjust the bolts to force the issue. It can't always be done without ruining the natural flow and making people feel manipulated. This is the problem with climbing real rock, sometimes a nearby weakness makes it impossible to maintain a more sustained climb. Apr 27, 2014
EWod  
Move the bolts to the left, so they are unreachable from the crack? Sounds like Canada got an FA!
The climbing on the face is too cool to pass up. Apr 26, 2014
John: Yeah I think it would go on gear. If I am motivated I might haul my rack out next time, then again it's a long hike for one route.... Apr 26, 2014
jbak  
When I was there 2-3 years back, I remember thinking the crack system might be a good gear line. Anyone done it ? Apr 26, 2014
This is really fun, no matter how you climb it, so you should do it!

Note: For the easier way up this thing, don't go into the grungy corner, but stay just right of the bolt line, using crimps, sidepulls and at times the clean looking crack system. Apr 26, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
I was curious to find out if someone would find a path up the far right slab/crack feature. I am a sucker for arêtes, so it never felt contrived for me to stay on the arête.

I'll adjust the grade, and try your beta when I'm out there next. Apr 26, 2014
That's interesting Eric. While looking at the photos I wondered if people were just avoiding what looked like a short move to the right or if it was a depth of field thing. Not sure if that is what you did but that was my thought.

It is easy at times when setting up routes to force a line up a section of rock. This is especially true if it is a cool feature. Apr 26, 2014
Unfortunately I have to report that I was able to steal an entire number grade off of this route. On my onsite attempt I found that by moving just a bit to the right, I was able to greatly reduce the difficulty, while still easily clipping the bolts. Not only that, but a full hands free rest is also available halfway up by thinking outside of the box.

While much easier than the given grade, climbing the route in this manner is really interesting and a lot of fun. Apr 26, 2014
EWod  
I found the "thief", and he/she resides between the last bolt and the anchors. Stole the redpoint right out from under me! Great addition to the mountain. Apr 21, 2014