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Bring Your Friends
5.8,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 53
votes
FA: Jennifer Knezek & Darren Knezek
Utah
> S Central Utah
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Buckhorn Wash
> Lower Buckhorn
> Pine Canyon
Description
This is a nice splitter crack that starts with off fingers, leading to hands. The final 15 feet is protected by two bolts.
The really cool thing about this route, is there are quite a few foot possibilities outside of the crack; keeping the grade moderate instead of more difficult.
You don't need a million cams. One each from #.5 BD to #2 yellow plus and additional #2. Start off in a 1.25" crack (purple BD or DMM) gradually getting larger until it's about 2.5" (yellow #2 BD or #4 DMM). I like to have two yellows near the end. The two bolt boulder problem is quite fun and ends on a nice ledge.
Location
Locate the route with the huge cowboy initials, KRGA. To the right is a stack of huge broken boulders leaning against the main cliff. Go along the base of these huge boulders heading to the right (going further up into Pine Canyon) and passing 4 other climbs. Head around the right side of the boulders and head up to the main wall. Nestled behind the boulders is this climb, you can't miss this splitter and Mrs. Renfro's Revenge to the left of it.
Protection
.5 to 2 BD Camalots with extra #2. Two quickdraws for the two bolts and two more for the anchors.
Park City, UT