PRINT: Rock Climb Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction, Powerlinez

Any Which Way But Down/Ex-traction

5.8 PG13, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 1.8 from 9 votes
FA: Jon Crefeld, Jono Crefeld, 08/10/09
New York > Powerlinez > k. Tower Wall area > 6. The Tower Wall

Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance. Details

The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:

No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.

The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.

Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.

Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.

Description

Lots of thoughtful moves.

Up about five feet to the cracks. Simplest is to follow the left crack upward trending slightly right, then left through a concave scoop up to a ledge.
. . Varation 1 (a bit harder): Instead follow the right crack -- at first diagonal, then straight up into vertical crack at left edge of small overhang (which is the crux overhang of the Crefeld Crank route) -- then step left to the ledge.

Next up the left side of a fractured block. Then a little (awkward?) overhang move at left side of bush. Finish up through (overhanging) center of darker top rocks.
. . Variation 2 (easier finish): Instead go around right side of bush, join the "Back to the Gym" route in finishing over right side of darker top rocks).

warning: The rock around this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Below a crack system about 15 feet left of the Shark's Tooth detached flake, near the slight ridge where the main left face of the Tower Wall bends to merge with slab of sector Three Bears.

. . (The start of thie route feels more like on Three Bears, but the finish (and top-rope anchor) is arguably more like the other routes on left side of Tower Wall).

Protection

Lead: normal NY style Trad rack, perhaps with emphasis on smaller stuff.
. . See Comments below.

Top-Rope: Likely easiest with a rather long static line (perhaps 100 feet) for top anchor, to reach tree set way back from top of cliff. Perhaps helps to rappel or down-climb below top of cliff to set the carabiners lower to avoid getting the belay rope stuck on trees or protruding rocks, or dragging / abrading over an edge.

Reaching the top of the cliff: One simple (but not short) way is to hike left (WNW) past the base of sectors Three Bears and Daves Wall to the intersection of the Tower Wall tier trail with The Good Book access trail. Turn Right and follow The Good Book trail up a steep slope, then after it gets gentle, find a way off it right and upward toward the mini-summit view at the top of the Tower Wall cliff.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

routes overview Left side Tower Wall<br>
A Risky Bear / Ex-Traction Slab<br>
B Any Which Way / Ex-Traction<br>
C Crefeld Crank<br>
D Back to the Gym<br>
E Back to the Wall<br>
F No Rest for the Wicked<br>
G Unrest of the Witches<br>
H TWD original Lead<br>
Hd TWD direct start<br>
He . . tired climber finish<br>
Htr TWD straight TR finish<br>
J Rachel's Crack

routes overview Left side Tower Wall A Risky Bear / Ex-Traction Slab B Any Which Way / Ex-Traction C Crefeld Crank D Back to the Gym E Back to the Wall F No Rest for the Wicked G Unrest of t…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kenr

5.8

? Protection for Trad leading ?
The low cracks are a bit flary, don't take stoppers well. Bring multiple small cams, and try finding exactly the right spot in the crack where there is a hope that they might hold better. Jul 13, 2015

Jack Servedio
Raleigh, NC

5.8

For a fun alternate, after you do the boulder at the bottom, instead of going to the right of the bush, go left/straight up and finish on Risky Bear. More direct, though a bit easier line.

There is a lot of placements for smaller nuts at the concave feature at the start if you look for them.

Be aware of where you are running your rope in relation to the bushes in the spring/summer - I learned this the hard way the first time I was wandering up the left side of tower/right side of three bears. May 31, 2017

petzl logic

I sewed up the beginning pretty good and found a nice spot for a big DMM offset off the deck, but it was a little spooky with that boulder there. Mar 9, 2020

Jon Crefeld
New Jersey

I think the inspiration for the route is the fact that you can get trad pro in the concave feature not too far off the deck. After that, it's nice that you can just follow terrain to fit your mood and ability. Apr 4, 2024