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Routes in Party Buttress

'Bout Time S,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Autum Fire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in the Saddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Biohazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Flashin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diversity in Microcosm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat My Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exoduster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freaky Stylee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Harbinger Scarab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Manute Bol T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mental Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Modern Primitive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Party All the Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Till Yer Blind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in My Mind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plug, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Pussy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Premarital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'more Energy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stealth and Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stim-O-Stam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweetest Taboo , The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Techman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Through the Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, Carl Samples, Bob Rentka, 1989
Page Views: 748 total, 17/month
Shared By: D B on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!

Location

Right of Techman

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchors.

Photos

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Mark Paulson  
 
Four star movement detracted only by aspect (in a corner behind a tree) and a little sand up top (although it's way cleaner than it used to be). Otherwise, a fantastic climb. May 30, 2017
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Brian, did I actually call it soft 12c? That was wrongo! Jun 16, 2016
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair. Nov 7, 2015