Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, Carl Samples, Bob Rentka, 1989
Page Views: 946 total · 16/month
Shared By:     on Apr 7, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!

Location

Right of Techman

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchors.

Photos

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BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair. Nov 7, 2015
Rick Thompson
Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Rick Thompson   Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Brian, did I actually call it soft 12c? That was wrongo! Jun 16, 2016
Mark Paulson
Raleigh, NC
  5.12d
Mark Paulson   Raleigh, NC
  5.12d
Four star movement detracted only by aspect (in a corner behind a tree) and a little sand up top (although it's way cleaner than it used to be). Otherwise, a fantastic climb. May 30, 2017
Pnelson

 
Pnelson    
 
I agree this is slightly lower quality than its neighbors to the left, both because its first three bolts are incredibly close to the Biohazard corner (at the second bolt most folks use some shared holds), and due to some mildly sandy, flakey rock at the top. It would still be an ultra-classic at most other crags; we can just afford to be quality snobs here at the NRG. Solid 5.12+, with probably the hardest single move on the wall, but still easier to send than Pudd's or Slash'n'Burn. Dec 6, 2018