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Routes in Riverbed Boulder

Bedtime V3+ 6A+
Cool Side of the Pillow V8 7B PG13
Dat Mantle V1 5
Dirt Burglar (Project), aka STDF V9+ 7C
Dismantle V0 4
High Water Mark V0+ 4+ PG13
Lights Out V7- 7A+
Low Tide V2 5+
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total · 2/month
Shared By: Christopher J Simpson on Apr 6, 2014
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Really obvious 45° overhang on hidden side of the boulder. Start on obvious edge, use any number of cool feet, go to intermediate or even make the huge move straight to the lip.

Would be absolutely killer if the ground were a mere four feet lower... would still be three stars if the ground were just one foot lower...

As it is, it might not go.


The thinnest pad you own.


Providence, RI
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
As Chris said, this problem is NASTY hard as is. the move from the start is either HUGE with no room to gain momentum or a full lockoff to terrible holds (a nearly invisible friction patch or the razor sharp mono crimp that the problem is named for. I don't think it goes as is. Apr 11, 2014
Joe M.    
No one has a shovel???? Apr 21, 2014
Providence, RI
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
Joe, I was hoping my comment would bait Mark Sprague ;) Maybe next time I'm down I'll dig it out a bit (its mostly compacted organic matter) and see if it goes. at this point several people (chris, myself, and matt loon have tried it to no avail) May 1, 2014
Derek has also tried and agrees that it's just not doable as is. I could see a shovel expedition at some point, but I'm waiting for there to be more interest before I bother.

Has anyone repeated anything else on this boulder yet? May 7, 2014
Providence, RI
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
Havent had the chance to really pull on your 7 yet Chris though it looks nice. I think maybe after the summer is past I would definitely go with you to dig out the project. May 29, 2014
Jamie Re
Providence, RI
Jamie Re   Providence, RI
Chris I went out there mid august and it was so fucking humid but I managed to climb the 0 on the left. That proj though looks radical. Sep 11, 2014
It's time to go dig, and to reenforce the flake on the face out left... Anyone down for some gardening? Nov 19, 2015

More About Dirt Burglar (Project), aka STDF