Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Yum-Yum, '98
Page Views: 48 total · 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Apr 6, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

sufficient yet sometimes thought-provoking gear, balance-intensive moves and calf-draining stemming characterize this line. carefully navigate loose blocks on ledge up and right from new ferrari anchor before last 20 ft. to just 5.13 anchors. not listed in new (Robertson) guidebook but certainly too obvious of a line to have not been already plucked

Location

muy enjoyable natural line that snakes be/ the bolted aretes of new ferrari and just 5.13. shares new ferrari start.

Protection

standard rack w/ emphasis on small
316 steel anchors (2007)

Photos

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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all? Apr 7, 2014
greg k
  5.10+
greg k  
  5.10+
the gear at the top was small (00 c3 and yellow x4) but in good rock. the cruxes are getting off the ground, and again after leaving the initial dihedral. definitely worth doing, go check it out! Apr 7, 2014
greg k
  5.10+
greg k  
  5.10+
found this climb listed in yum-yum's old guide. the start shown there is the same as for "just 5.13". the start described here (see above) is harder (and better) May 6, 2014
Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Also known as "the best climb in the world" ;) Jun 29, 2014