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Routes in {10} Backdoor

Another Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Basement Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Rock Falling S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coach Demonstrates S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cowboy Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Pole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon with Matches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody's Welfare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Teeth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hao Ren Alang S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harley Davidson S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermit Crab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Class Quickdraw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into Thin Air TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Five-Thirteen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Tube S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion Queen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motorcycle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Ferrari S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phantom Fright T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Po V-easy 3
RCC TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redhead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rodeo Clown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Blanket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidestep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Sea T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Legged Cat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Three-Legged Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twisting S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Water Heater Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Fooled Who? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Yum-Yum, '98
Page Views: 30 total, 1/month
Shared By: greg k on Apr 6, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

sufficient yet sometimes thought-provoking gear, balance-intensive moves and calf-draining stemming characterize this line. carefully navigate loose blocks on ledge up and right from new ferrari anchor before last 20 ft. to just 5.13 anchors. not listed in new (Robertson) guidebook but certainly too obvious of a line to have not been already plucked

Location

muy enjoyable natural line that snakes be/ the bolted aretes of new ferrari and just 5.13. shares new ferrari start.

Protection

standard rack w/ emphasis on small
316 steel anchors (2007)

Photos

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Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Also known as "the best climb in the world" ;) Jun 29, 2014
greg k
 
greg k  
 
found this climb listed in yum-yum's old guide. the start shown there is the same as for "just 5.13". the start described here (see above) is harder (and better) May 6, 2014
greg k
 
greg k  
 
the gear at the top was small (00 c3 and yellow x4) but in good rock. the cruxes are getting off the ground, and again after leaving the initial dihedral. definitely worth doing, go check it out! Apr 7, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The bolts of Just 5.13 do seem to indicate a line to the right of the crack. However, I found that the only way to climb the bolted line was to stem up the dihedral, using the crack for holds, and clip far out to the right. This was a definite and obvious natural line, and have been meaning to go back and do it on gear.

Was the gear at the top sketchy at all? Apr 7, 2014