Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe french, Bryan Bird
Page Views: 1,852 total · 32/month
Shared By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Apr 4, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Excellent route!! tons of fun mostly easy climbing, an awesome summit, and a bit of bush whacking to complete this Zion adventure.

3 parts worth mentioning:

- pitch 2 has decent holds but often deep, and its in almost a chimney at times, it really sucks for the 2nd if they have a pack, try to go light and fast, we averaged 30 mins per pitch on the first go with out trying to hard.

- The physical crux for us was the start of pitch 5, thruth fest small roof with bad feet unless you can stem very well. the pro is only ok there

- Mental crux was the last pitch, solid 5.9 moves with what i felt was almost pg-13 pro. I had to ooze in and out of a chimney to get some sort of pro, i guess you could take a large big bro or something...

The summit at the bridge mountain arch (aka Crawford arch) is all worth it!!

Location

Starts right next to smash-mouth. take the normal path to confluence, and keep going around the corner until you see the big roof.

Protection

a set of double BD cams from .3 - 3, a 4 and a 5 is all you should need. Stoppers if you want, we did not use any, and we took a few triples we never needed, and I would not consider myself overly bold. bring a few extra slings, and a few alpine draws.
Danger-Russ Gordon
Orem UT
  5.10b/c
Danger-Russ Gordon   Orem UT
  5.10b/c
if any one needs clarification, let me know, at the time of posting this it was late and odds are i could have done something better, if so let me know :) Apr 5, 2014
Sam Keller
  5.10b
Sam Keller  
  5.10b
A pretty good route. Maybe 4 pitches of quality climbing in my opinion. We took the right hand chimney on the top. What a wild ride. My advice a #6 is not needed. Take a 70 meter rope. My 70m barely reached some of the rap anchors. Apr 1, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Good, fun Zion adventure with a few pitches of good climbing and then some typical Zion jungle mountaineering type stuff.

I found the description and pictures posted here to be mostly useless. Here's a better pitch by pitch description:

Pitch 1. (5.8) Starts essentially the same as Smash Mouth but climbs the crack or corner left of the short section of thin hands splitter that is the first pitch of Smash Mouth. Finish at an alcove beneath the wide bottom section of the second pitch and belay at one bolt that can be backed up with a .75 Camalot high above. 25? meters

Pitch 2. (5.10) Off the belay climb into the wide section directly above the belay. It may look ominous but any difficult chimney climbing is easily avoided by great face features. Once pulling over the small overlap climb the corner above that starts out hands and gets thin but climbs well with face features all around. Small cams .2-.3 cams are helpful at the top. Finish at a 2 bolt belay station with a good, flat ledge. 30? meters

Pitch 3. (5.9) Traverse left from the belay through some bushes to gain a double crack system. 4 Camalots go in the right hand of the two cracks that can be stemmed. Above, the crack turns into a hand crack that arcs left at the top. Traverse left on easy terrain to The Tongue feature, a rounded protrusion. Place protection, traverse low and then up to The Tongue where good gear is had and over it to a two bolt belay at a good stance. 25? meters

Pitch 4. (5.7) Climb up and right from the belay on a long ramp with ample vegetation. Look for first pine tree (with rap slings but they aren’t visible from below) and leave the gully and climb up to the left side of the pine tree via a short crack and slab move. Not much gear or need for it on this pitch. 35 meters.

Pitch 5. (4th class) Scramble up and right through a jumbled, broken section of rock in a slight chimney. Above, there is a large varnished pillar of rock. On the right side you’ll see a splitter crack. Head toward that splitter and the juniper tree (flaky bark, blue berries) at its base and for pitch 6 you’ll climb a crack to the right of the splitter and the juniper. The crack has some blocks in the base of it and is a few feet left of a corner. 60 meters?

Pitch 6. (5.10) The crack has a short, steep section of fist crack that can be made much more reasonable by stemming the corner to the right. Then climb into a chimney and then a #3 Camelot sized crack above. Easier terrain above climbs a flake like features before finishing at a small pinyon with tat that is at the base of another angling ramp. 35 meters.

Pitch 7. (4th class) Climb the vegetated ramp. Not much gear or need for it. Could place a piece early and then sling some bushes. You are often “climbing” on sand steps from prior parties. Finish at a large pine tree that also serves as a rap station. 35 meters.

Pitch 8. (5.9) Two options to start. The lefthand start climbs the corner on the left side of the tree. Gets thin (tiny cams) and then have to traverse right into flared corner with a wide, #4 Camelot crack in the back. What appeared to be the better option is to step right from the tree into a hand crack, mantle on to a ledge and get ready for the long flared corner. You could leave almost your entire rack at the tree and bring all the #4 - #5 Camalots with slings that you have. The corner is mostly #4 Camalot size. The crack is a bit polished and slippery at the bottom but the lesser angle and some good edges on the left face make it reasonable. Wedge yourself in the flared corner and get going. When you top out on the ledge, 20 feet below the big ponderosa pine on the rim, you’ll see a set of pockets on the lefthand wall. You could belay here to have an easier time hauling packs. It’s just a short scramble to the pine from there. 25? meters.

Check out the arch.

Rap 1. 35-36 meters from a pinyon set back from the cliff edge. The SuperTopo guidebook describes this as a 100’ rappel and maybe it is if it’s extended to the lip of the cliff, which would be ideal but take a lot of material. Otherwise, if the rap is set at the tree it’s a full 35-36 meter rappel back to the large pine tree below the 8th pitch.

Rap 2. 50? meters to a small pinyon on a flat ledge. SuperTopo described two rappels, 60 and 70 feet from the large pine tree on the ramp but I couldn’t find the second rappel and didn’t see anything that looked great for rappelling. Maybe they meant to rappel back down the ramp? Didn’t seem great.

Rap 3. 20 meters to the ledge system that serves as the base of pitch 6.

Downclimb to the top of pitch 4. The rappel is from a large pine tree and the anchor is extended 20 feet or more to the lip. The old rope is core shot but new material has been added.

Rap 34 meters to top of Smash Mouth. Rappel Smash Mouth from here or one option is to rappel 33 meters to 2nd pitch of Take Back The Rainbow if there are parties on Smash Mouth. Can double rope rap to the ground from there or swing back into Smash Mouth’s 2nd pitch anchor if needed. Nov 21, 2018
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
A few things about Danger's description that should be corrected.

Pitch 2 is not a chimney and it doesn't really matter if you wear a pack. The initial 20 feet are chimney-like but no chimneying is required and the rest of it is most certainly not a chimney. Calling it a chimney is misleading.

Pitch 5 doesn't have a roof. It's just steep for about 15 feet.

Pitch 8 is the most easily protected pitch on the route. There's nothing PG13 about it unless maybe the left start to the pitch but even then the pro looks solid but small. PG13 implies the gear is scant or in someway poor. But, you could bring as many #4 Camalots as you want for the flared corner and sew it up. Or, you can just bump and walk gear up the crack and be on toprope the whole time. Nov 21, 2018