Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Nathaniel Coleman, 11/2018
Page Views: 3,430 total · 38/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Apr 2, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

The other crown jewel of the Celebrity Cave next to Suzanne Somers. This one attacks the cave directly, following the most continuous line of features out the roof. 

Starting 30 feet right of Suzanne in the cave proper, make easy moves to the roof where the business begins. 

Around the 3rd bolt in the roof, tackle an extremely powerful and unique boulder problem that likely checks in at V10 and involves the only chipped hold on the route (clearly visible from the ground). Two 3-points-off dynos immediately follow this boulder problem, finishing on an obvious clipping jug.

 A very cool sequence involving a left kneebar brings you to a brilliant rightwards traverse with plentiful beta trickery. From the last obvious hold on the traverse, make a long move to a glassy ball hold and another powerful sequence to the next roof tier.

 One last very difficult and hard-to-read boulder problem deposits you at the chains.

One of the best and hardest in Arizona, insanely powerful and quite pumpy. This is the first half of CP's envisioned 6 Million Dollar Man project, which takes a line upwards from the anchor through the spectacular water-streaked headwall to the top of the cliff.

Location

One route right of Suzanne Somers. It is the only route tackling the roof directly before you encounter Renaissance Man (not including the Bloodsport project, which has only the first 3 bolts currently installed).

Protection

~12 bolts to chains (fixed lowering biners). The majority of the route is tightly bolted, allowing one to easily work on most of the moves other than the first sequence after the long traverse. Stick clip strongly recommended to clip the first 3 bolts in the roof- clippng the bolt protecting the crux is very hard and it cannot be safely skipped.

Photos