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Routes in 7 - Celebrity Cave

Almost Famous S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Butterfly Hiccup S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fight Knight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Go Nad! S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Great White Hunter S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lee Majors S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Renaissance Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Spark, The S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Suzanne Somers: A Love Story S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Unknown (Right Of Butterfly Hiccup) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Open Project, Equipped by CP Little
Page Views: 915 total · 19/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

The other crown jewel of the Celebrity Cave next to Suzanne Somers. This one attacks the cave directly, following the most continuous line of features out the roof. Starting 30 feet right of Suzanne in the cave proper, make easy moves to the roof where the business begins. Around the 3rd bolt in the roof, tackle an extremely powerful and unique boulder problem that likely checks in at a minimum of V10/11 and involves the only chipped hold on the route (clearly visible from the ground). Two 3-points-off dynos immediately follow this boulder problem, finishing on an obvious clipping jug. A very cool sequence involving a left kneebar brings you to a brilliant rightwards traverse with plentiful beta trickery. From the last obvious hold on the traverse, make a long move to a glassy ball hold and another powerful sequence to the next roof tier. One last very difficult and hard-to-read boulder problem deposits you at the chains.

The grade is pure speculation on my part, but it is extremely difficult to imagine it being any easier than 14c. Should this be completed, it will be one of the best and hardest in Arizona. Insanely powerful and quite pumpy. This is the first half of CP's envisioned 6 Million Dollar Man project, which would take an as-yet-unbolted line upwards from the anchor through the spectacular water-streaked headwall.

Location

One route right of Suzanne Somers. It is the only route tackling the roof directly before you encounter Renaissance Man (not including the Bloodsport project, which has only the first 3 bolts currently installed).

Protection

~12 bolts to chains (fixed lowering biners). The majority of the route is tightly bolted, allowing one to easily work on most of the moves other than the first sequence after the long traverse. Stick clip strongly recommended to clip the first 3 bolts in the roof- clippng the bolt protecting the crux is very hard and it cannot be safely skipped.

Photos

Luis Cisneros
Tucson
Luis Cisneros   Tucson
This is not surprising. UV radiation damage is cumulative, and even if the draws are not exposed to direct sunlight they WILL degrade after enough time. My guess is that the non-faded colors speak for the fact that the draws somehow stayed fairly clean from dust and, probably, that the webbing degradation was uniform, rather than localized at their surface... in essence, slow cooking over 10 years... Dec 8, 2014

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