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Routes in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dominant Partner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ellery Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gold Mind T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guilt of the Fisherman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roof-to-Dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spillway Arete S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Triple Ripple T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Urmas Franosch August, 1990
Page Views: 154 total, 3/month
Shared By: -robin- on Apr 2, 2014 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Begin on the right side of the arete, moving up over easy rock to the first bolt, from there three bolts and fun moves on either side of the arete bring you to a stance and the anchors.


The prominent arete just to the right (west) of the Gold Mind crack(s).


Four bolts to a two bolt anchor


Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
I know Chris Falkenstein says that Urmas did the FA of Ellery Arete (5.11a), but I think he did the FA of the Spillway Arete (10d). So who in the heck really did the FA of Ellery Arete? It's got 4 new 3/8ths bolts that I don't remember back in 1990. Aug 28, 2015