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Better Safe than Sorry
5.10+,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.6 from 10
votes
FA: Martin Weiler, Robert Steenmeyer
Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Confluence
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Description
Begin in a small alcove 20' or so right of "Gunswinger". A short steep section brings you to a ledge and then 40' of low angle hand crack. If continuing belay from a tree above the crack. If stopping here (for 1 pitch of 5.8), head left up a small slab with a bolt to the "Gunswinger" anchor and rap.
Pitch 2: Move up and right to the base of a large right facing corner. (A little loose)
Pitch 3: Climb the corner then move right out the roof. (5.10+) It is also possible to continue up the finger crack in the corner at 5.11. Reach a ledge and a bolted anchor.
Pitch 4: Work up and left to a flake with a hand crack and follow it to a small ledge on the arete. Belay here or continue to the top of the tower.
To descend: 4 rappels with a single 60m down the northwest face of the tower.
Location
The next route right of the corner "Gunswinger". Begin in a small alcove with a boulder.
Protection
2-3x .5"-4", 1 large (6") piece.
![Eddie following the fun first pitch hand crack of "Better Safe than Sorry".]()
[Hide Photo] Eddie following the fun first pitch hand crack of "Better Safe than Sorry".
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We didn't have a bd #6 on us so my partner leap frogged a 4 and 5 and felt comfortable on the wide pitch. It looks a bit intimidating but there's great crimps and feet the whole way.
Pitch 4 felt like an easy 5.8 trad climb that lead to a 5.9 sport climb. Good pro leads to closely spaced bolts.
We used a 70 to rap and got down in 2 raps. The first was a rope stretcher so KNOT YOUR ENDS!! Oct 19, 2017