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Routes in Fashion Slab

Blue Steel S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Catwalk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ferrari S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Jockey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finnish Dwarf S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gasoline Fight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Tigre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Merman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mugatu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange-Mocha Frappuccino T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prada S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Todd Townsend, Amy Wicks 10/2013
Page Views: 775 total · 16/month
Shared By: Todd Townsend on Apr 2, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the chimney, or the easy face on the right, to gain a low angle flaring hand crack. At a small ledge, step left around the arete into a finger crack and follow this up to a mini roof and a stump. Pull past the stump and face climb past two bolts (crux) to an incipient finger crack. This crack peters out at the last bolt. Traverse up and left to the anchor.

Location

Between Like Buddah and Merman. Start in the chimney or up the easy face on the right. Rap down Lefty with a single 70m rope.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3". Doubles in finger size are helpful. Belay from the top at the fixed ring bolt anchor.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.9
not a big fan of the bottom half, but the top half is excellent and definitely worth doing. the gazelle and i both thought the crux was way easier than 10a. the holds are just too big and the angle not all that steep. put it in the valley, tuolumne, needles, or jtree and it would be 5.9 (on a bad day). a single 70m rope makes it to just below the big ledge and would require a downclimb from there. we rapped to the P1 anchor of merman. Nov 14, 2016
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
Nice route with great pro! Aug 3, 2015
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
 
Skip and I love this climb! Fun, varied, long and enjoyable the whole way. One of the best mixed .10a's we have done in a while! The protection is bomber, the bolts are well-placed, and the crux is super fun! Thanks, Todd and Amy!
Side-note: I never used the #2 or #3 on the rack. Jul 24, 2015
Tyler Wick
Bishop, CA
 
Tyler Wick   Bishop, CA
 
80m makes it almost all the way down, maybe 6-8ft of down climbing in the super easy section. Jul 8, 2015
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
 
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
 
Glad you had fun.

That's good to know about lowering off. I didn't think that you'd make it, even with a 70. Probably still a good idea to tie a knot in the end, just to be safe. Apr 19, 2015
Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.
 
Austin Archer   Bishop, Ca.
 
Fun climbing! Singles rack up to 2 camelot, with a few extra finger pieces seemed adequate. had a 70 meter, I was able to lower off to the big ledge and belay my partner up the route. Thanks for putting it up, hope it gets done more. Apr 17, 2015

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