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Tatanka
5.6,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
FA: Jonathan Reinig, John Reinig, Josh Reinig.
California
> San Diego County
> N San Diego County
> Old Castle
> Main Wall (aka The Go…
Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land.
Details
Due to its location Old Castle Crag is around private lots of land primarily old avocado groves. As of now current land managers have no issues with access to this Crag. Respect land owners keep a low profile and most importantly clean up any trash, you pack out what you pack in. Thanks and Enjoy.
Description
One of the Easier routes at Old Castle. From far right side of Central Ledge, climb up and right 30 feet through grassy, blocky, 5.0 terrain. This will put you directly under the right slabs of the Gorilla Head Buttress. Climb either very large grassy right facing corner, or better yet climb broken cracked feature 15 feet right of corner to large visor roof. Pull the roof on left side in the corner via awkward body slot groove. Now climb directly up vertical yet protectable face 25' to belay station at top of buttress.
Location
Tatanka is found at the extreme far right margin of the main wall obvious low angle slabs capped by roof.
Protection
Many slung constrictions. Gear up to 3 inches. Giant slung Boulder at top of climb for belay anchor.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the start of Tatanka.
[Hide Photo] ST at the start of Tatanka as seen from right side of Central ledge.