Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,643 total · 28/month
Shared By: ferrells on Mar 29, 2014
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Technique and the ability to do some strong underclinging on sharp crimps will serve you well on this fantastic climb.
Start sitting on the pocket-type holds, stand up and power into the sharp undercling crimps. Hold the tension and grab a super cool right hand grip, and then do probably the funnest move ever (there may be a wicked drop knee involved (maybe)). This is the meat of it, and the rest of it is not so bad with good beta.
I did not climb at LRC enough to know if this is typical for the area, but I thought it was just great.

Location

Woah. Hard to find for sure. It's next to Now and Zen. These problems are in an upper corridor that is accessed by walking uphill from the Jungle Gym boulder and Fish Lips, then left towards the club house. Once above the level of most of the boulders, walk towards clubhouse and a fenced off area. Before you get to the fenced off area, you can look down to the left, and see a little gully corridor. Once down there, Now and Zen and Dr. Atkinson will be on a wall to the right. Now and Zen is the steeper of the two, and Dr. Atkinson is to the left.

Protection

1-2 pads, or 1 pad + good spotter.

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