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Taking the Stairs
V9-,
Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),
Avg: 3 from 19
votes
FA: unknown
Utah
> Central Utah
> Joe's Valley
> Left Fork
> Raiden Area
Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo… and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
Start sitting on a big right hand pocket/undercling and left hand on a worse pocket to the left. Move slightly up through a pretty positive sloping crimp rail and a strange and somewhat tweaky split finger pocket/crimper/sloper/pinch on the arete up and right (hard to describe this hold, but you will know it when you see it). Grab one of several options of slopers then move up to the good holds above. Keep it together through the awkward and sandy topout.
This is a great problem with powerful and insecure moves above a good landing. Looks like there are several ways to do it.
Location
Just up canyon from the main Raiden area gully. Clearly visible from the road. Maybe 30 feet off the right side of the road when heading up canyon. There is a good parking spot on the opposite side of the road just across from the boulder.
Protection
Two pads and a spotter.
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