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Routes in Dixon's Wall

Boom! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bussey's Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Kirk's First Voyage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carpe Stalactite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chinese Water Torture S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dixon's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
End Justifies the Knees, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hindenberg's Harmonica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In Vino Veritas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lizzard the Gizzard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
OMG! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Africa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peacefull Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pole Dancing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rodeo Lover S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Jeff Elison
Page Views: 191 total · 4/month
Shared By: John Byrnes on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: John Byrnes

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Description

Crank a hard boulder problem right over the bolts or sneak right around it. Thoughtful face climbing leads to big moves using pockets, tufas and flowstone on the very overhanging headwall. The crux will be found here; your pumped forearms will inform you of the exact spot.

Location

Start on a flat boulder a few feet left of where the approach trail meets the wall.

Protection

9 titanium bolts and anchors

Photos

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Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
12a if you go straight up at the start, 11c if you go to the right. The opening boulder problem is both hard, painful, and out of character with the rest of the route. I highly recommend skipping it!

Great route. Mar 8, 2015