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Routes in Dixon's Wall

Boom! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buffalo Soldier S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bussey's Bulge S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain Kirk's First Voyage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Carpe Stalactite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Chinese Water Torture S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dixon's Delight S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
End Justifies the Knees, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hindenberg's Harmonica S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
In Vino Veritas S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lizzard the Gizzard S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
OMG! S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Out of Africa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peacefull Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pole Dancing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rodeo Lover S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: John Byrnes, Mar 2014
Page Views: 955 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Byrnes on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: John Byrnes

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Description

Climb pockets and tufas, past a powerful lower crux, to where you can stem the stalactite and get a no-hands rest. Carpe the stalactite, step over onto it, and climb it on the outside. Cop a rest at the mini-cave (left knee pad) and then punch it for the anchors over steep pockets and tufas, with the main crux right before the anchors.

Location

Start off a boulder at the right side of Dixon's Wall below an obvious large stalactite.

Protection

7 titanium bolts + anchor.

Photos

Chris. T.  
 
An instant classic! My favorite route of the week on the island. Mar 28, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
Never done anything like this. Stellar movement, crazy stalactite stemming, and some of the best rock on the island. Savor the cryptic 5.10+ pocket pulling on your way to the upper crux on incredible stone. Definitely my favorite route of the trip.

Also, I love the way this was bolted. Keep it together at the crux! Mar 8, 2015

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