Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: John Byrnes, Mar 2014
Page Views: 1,108 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Byrnes on Mar 28, 2014
Admins: John Byrnes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Climb pockets and tufas, past a powerful lower crux, to where you can stem the stalactite and get a no-hands rest. Carpe the stalactite, step over onto it, and climb it on the outside. Cop a rest at the mini-cave (left knee pad) and then punch it for the anchors over steep pockets and tufas, with the main crux right before the anchors.

Location

Start off a boulder at the right side of Dixon's Wall below an obvious large stalactite.

Protection

7 titanium bolts + anchor.

Photos

Chris. T.  
 
An instant classic! My favorite route of the week on the island. Mar 28, 2014
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
Never done anything like this. Stellar movement, crazy stalactite stemming, and some of the best rock on the island. Savor the cryptic 5.10+ pocket pulling on your way to the upper crux on incredible stone. Definitely my favorite route of the trip.

Also, I love the way this was bolted. Keep it together at the crux! Mar 8, 2015
JamesLucas Lucas
Boulder, CO
JamesLucas Lucas   Boulder, CO
watch out going to the anchor! I took the ride on my onsight. YAHOOO!!! Dec 22, 2018