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Voyager One

5.13a, Sport, 165 ft (50 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 20 votes
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Arizona Strip > Lime Kiln Canyon > Grail

Description

An amazing journey through edges and pockets that takes you epically high up on the Grail. Start as you would for Magnum Opus and then break right just before the first magnum crux to a good ledge rest beneath the main crux section on Voyager 1. Some rad pockets and sparse feet make up the next 2 bolts of business, and then carry on through a sea of ledges and edges (~12a) for a very long time to reach another thin and super unique finishing crux just below the anchor. Even with an 80m rope you will need to lower twice.

Extremely tall! Somewhat sporty! Brilliant stone!

Location

Shares the start with Magnum Opus and then breaks right.

Protection

Many quick draws ... 18?

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Remy Franklin passing the pocketed crux of "Voyager One" (photo by Emily Trombly, posted with permission)
[Hide Photo] Remy Franklin passing the pocketed crux of "Voyager One" (photo by Emily Trombly, posted with permission)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Daniel Hatley
[Hide Comment] Will a 70m rope get you to the midway anchors when lowering from the top? Mar 22, 2018
Matt Carroll
Van
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] 80m gets you back to the midway chains on this route with a few feet to spare. A 70 would not, but you could swing over to magnum anchors and pull through from there. It may be a bit of a charade to grab all your draws, but this line is worth it!

It is possible to dodge the crux out right, and some chalk makes it look like this is occasionally visited. The pocket moves above the overlap are not to be missed! Super techy and fun—they make the climb IMO. Also there is a “direct” start into this, it is not necessary to start on magnum. Really, really awesome. Apr 15, 2019
Mike Rowley
Traveling
 
[Hide Comment] This route is unreal. Thanks for the incredible crag contribution J Star. The direct start is just to the R of Magnum Opus and is super fun at 5.11b/c to the first chains. The route goes straight up from the chains to the left side of the roof into thin pockets and big, strong moves. Some folks cheat the crux by going hard right at the roof (12b/c).

To echo, 70M WILL NOT reach the intermediate anchors. I left a quick link to facilitate getting down without using the Magnum Opus chains. Apr 11, 2022