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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 1,404 total · 30/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on Mar 25, 2014
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

One of the best splitters at The Gorge. Arguably better than Craig's Crack but not quite as hard and not quits as magnificent positioning as Craig's. Nonetheless the climb, jams, rock quality and positioning are stellar.
If only all the rock at The Gorge was this good!

Location

Located directly above SkyLine pinnacle, one tier up.
Just left of History Book.

Protection

Two bolt anchor. SLCD to size #2.

Photos

Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.6
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.6
Definitely difficult to find. Thanks to the only photo being taken from the top, I opted to finally walk around on the top till I spotted it. Which was immediately. I have attached some photos to help people get there. If you wish to avoid hiking above the formation. Sep 20, 2015
Neal Harder
San Diego
 
Neal Harder   San Diego
 
The arete is the best route on the formation. I believe it's called Punk Rock Show (5.10c), but can't find the source of that info now. The face to the left of the arete can be climbed by 2 variations which are both fun, but short. The right-hand variation is a thin crack that can be lead on gear, I think it's called No Ticket (5.10b). The left-hand variation involves side-pulls and crimps and is about the same difficulty. The other two lines to climb are the squeeze chimney on the far right (5.2?) and the low-angle crack on the far left (5.4?, can be lead on gear). Aug 23, 2015
Neal Harder
San Diego
 
Neal Harder   San Diego
 
The best approach is to continue uphill past History Book until you are almost to the top, then cut right on a small ramp that leads to the top of an obscure route called Khyber Squirrel. From there you can easily reach the TR anchor, or drop down to the base of the formation. Aug 23, 2015
Bailey Miller
  5.6
Bailey Miller  
  5.6
Took some time for me to find this climb. If coming from the gully behind Skyline, you need to scramble up and over some chockstones. You can also hike up to the top and drop in from above. Also beware: only about 2 moves of jamming before it goes to easy lie-backing.

The arete climb to the left was very fun as well. May 31, 2015
Neal Harder
San Diego
 
Neal Harder   San Diego
 
Bolt hangers on anchor replaced 6/14/2014. There are 6 lines that you can toprope from this anchor ranging from 5.2 chimney to 5.11 arete. Jun 14, 2014
Thanks Neal. The hanger has been missing for years. Have never gotten around to replacing it. :) May 22, 2014