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Routes in (4) Vulture Ridge

Los Pollos Hermanos II T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Wright & Chris Wright, Winter 2013/14
Page Views: 820 total, 18/month
Shared By: Chris Wright on Mar 23, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Though it'll probably never be a classic, for the right climber it's a pretty fun outing. The route is marred by 20' of bad rock to start, but the bolts are close enough that if you've climbed enough Smith or Utah desert choss I don't think you'll mind. The rest of the climb is worth it if you're up for it - sunny rock, quality climbing, and a great position far away from the throngs below might make it a fun distraction for a solid chossineer looking to get away for the day.

P1 (5.10b): Climb past a crumbling corner to gain an overlap below a clean red face. Pull onto the face and forget the choss below as you head up through knobs and edges to a wild overhanging prow of huecos. Surmount the prow and continue up a clean slab to a two-bolt anchor. (~38m, 14 bolts, optional gear)

P2 (5.7): Step left off the anchor and pull into the water groove which takes you to the ridge. (30m, bolts & gear)

You can rap to the ground from here with a 70m rope, or you can go for an adventure and continue up the ridge via 3rd to low 5th class climbing to the plateau above Vulture Gully. From there you can top out Smith Summit's towers via the west face routes, or walk off via the trail past Cod Rock.

Location

Approach per the Watts guide to Vulture Ridge. Hike the gully to the top and look for a line of bolts on your left.

Protection

Bolts and a few gear placements. P1 will likely be all bolts for anyone up for the route, although there are a few spots you could supplement with a piece. P2 is a mix of bolts and a few placements. A single rack to 2" should be adequate. 70m rope required if you intend to rap.

Photos

Johnny MacKinnon
Leadville, CO
Johnny MacKinnon   Leadville, CO
A fearful romp up some perched choss leads to 20 meters of excellent movement and inspiring position. Well down gentlemen. Climbed with Bill in May of 2014. Jun 9, 2014
J-Wright  
 
So far we've had one Chris and two James' up the thing. I wonder if/when it'll see another name show up... Mar 24, 2014