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Routes in The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle
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A Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boondoggle T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Byrd Pinnacle Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feather S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Friar, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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J + J Groove T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lemon Bomb T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Red Zinger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Skyline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trim T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Unknown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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V Formation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Whoosh T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wrangler Hero? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Xyphoid Fever T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Xyphoid Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 36.10394, -115.48544 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,149 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Noyce on Mar 23, 2014 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route ascends the obvious finger crack about five feet to the left of the bolted sport route, and about 20 feet to the left of Red Zinger. Supposedly the route goes at 5.12b, but It felt much harder than that to me (probably my lack of overhanging finger crack with no feet technique). The crux is encountered about 3/4 of the way up when the crack kicks back a few degrees beyond vertical, and the feet run out. After the crux, traverse right to the anchors of the bolted sport route.
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