Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 374 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ken Noyce on Mar 23, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route ascends the obvious finger crack about five feet to the left of the bolted sport route, and about 20 feet to the left of Red Zinger. Supposedly the route goes at 5.12b, but It felt much harder than that to me (probably my lack of overhanging finger crack with no feet technique). The crux is encountered about 3/4 of the way up when the crack kicks back a few degrees beyond vertical, and the feet run out. After the crux, traverse right to the anchors of the bolted sport route.

Location

Just left of the Feather, the bolted sport route that is just left of Red Zinger.

Protection

Finger sized pieces.

Photos

TAGG C
 
TAGG C  
 
Gear from .4 to .2 is fine. Doubles .4 and .3 but it is so short that you could probably do it with a single, It would just be on the bolder side of things. Also could definitely feel harder than 12a if you have fat finger because you are campusing on overhanging .3 and .2 crack. Even though it is really like (10 moves) short, the movement could be found on some harder cracks. HOWEVER, the bouldering nature of it makes it to me feel around 12a. Jan 23, 2019