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Routes in East Car Body Canyon

Ambition is Critical S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Basalt Somersault T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Boys-r-Blue S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citizens Against Spiders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cleaning Lady, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dirty Luck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eyeless in Gaza T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargling Vinegar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hershey Squirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Holiday in Cambodia S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Industrial Age, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jen's Dilemma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Lunch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Macabre Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Neon Leprechaun S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pansy - Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pansy, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raisin the Titanic T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rock Hudson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scream, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spasm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sperm Whale S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spice of Life, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Temporary Insanity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Terminal Hypocrisy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tin Man S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Studs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whaleback Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Whimper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whitehead Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wimp Roof S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Tom McLeod, Tedd Thompson, Pete Takeda
Page Views: 398 total · 7/month
Shared By: Gary Mattos on Mar 23, 2014 with updates from Chelsea Wood
Admins: Mike Engle

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Description

Easy climbing leads to a big roof. Same start as Whimper, go slightly right at third bolt and climb under the roof. Powerful moves and good foot work.

Protection

7 bolts to chains

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The footwork on this roof is wicked hard. Stay away from the sucker holds on the left when you pull the roof; get horizontal and follow the right-trending seam up and to the chains. Easier for shorties. May 11, 2015
Chelsea Wood
Boise, ID
  5.11c
Chelsea Wood   Boise, ID
  5.11c
7 bolts (or 6 if you skip the 6th bolt). Easy 5.8 climbing up to 4th bolt, before the roof. This is obviously where the crux starts. Use an extension at the 4th bolt below the roof. Reach the 5th clip from below the roof for good protection (I am 5’2” and can reach this). Use the crack to get over the roof and then out right on a lay back with high left foot. Skip the 6th bolt to save energy (it’s less than 2 feet above the 5th bolt), then easy climbing through one more bolt to chain anchors. Jul 4, 2018

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