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Routes in Bavarian Wall and The Far Side

Road to No Where T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bavarian Tower T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chubby Hubby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chunky Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dave's Route T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
My Way or the Ha Way T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pigs in Mud T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tuna Can S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10c S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
West Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Brian "BK" Ketron 2001
Page Views: 683 total, 15/month
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An under appreciated classic. A great adventure over four varied pitches of crack and face climbing.

Location

Starts up a crack protected with 4 gold bolts. This crack was originally filled with loose rock and debris but has cleaned up surprisingly well. Trend right at the start of the second pitch, avoiding the grey painted hangers on Chubby Hubby.
Alternatively take the Chubby Hubby dihedral left for an awesome 35 meter 10D pitch and lower back to the ground.

Description

An under appreciated classic. A great adventure over four varied pitches of crack and face climbing.

Protection

1-2 set of cams. At least 1, but maybe you'd like 2, #4's for the final pitch. 2 ropes to get down.

Location

Starts up a crack protected with 4 gold bolts. This crack was originally filled with loose rock and debris but has cleaned up surprisingly well. Trend right at the start of the second pitch, avoiding the grey painted hangers on Chubby Hubby.

Protection

1-2 set of cams. At least 1, but maybe you'd like 2, #4's for the final pitch. 2 ropes to get down.

Photos

Dave Stimson
Pincher Creek
 
Dave Stimson   Pincher Creek
 
There is now a bolted station at the top of pitch 3. Not necessarily the best place to belay for pitch 4, but you can now rappel the route with a single 70m rope. May 17, 2017
rickziegler Ziegler  
  5.10d
Finally did the upper pitches.
Pitch 1&2 link well with some long draws and back cleaning.
Pitch 3 is short but awesome.
Pitch 4 is fun! Probably worth bringing 2, #4s (I bumped one for ~30 ft). There's a bit of loose rock that is avoidable. Oct 22, 2016
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.10d
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.10d
Great route, glad to finally get on it.
Pitch 1: 10+, Short bolted pitch, steep start with sequential crack moves, Bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 10+, 90' or so pitch of bolts, make sure to step right around arete to stay on route (grey painted bolts for Chubby Hubby going left) Bolted anchor
Pitch 3: 10+, short crack with a few hard moves, build anchor
Pitch 4: 5.9, starts up crumbly crack into fun 4" crack with plenty of faceholds to keep it easy, used a few fist jams (maybe harder if you have small hands. . .) Clips two bolts and wanders its way up the wall, 100 or so feet long.

Rap left with 2 ropes, through a rope eating tree (fortunately our rope did not tangle up in the tree on the way down. Was able to do a 2 rope rap for first rap and 1 rope rap (70m rope) for final rap, toproped a great 12a below rap!

Gear: 14 quickdraws/trad draws, doubles from Metolius blue TCU to #4bd.

Started early in July (8am) and still climbed last 2 pitches in sun. Aug 4, 2014