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Routes in Easy Bake Alcove

Autumnal Bliss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Babies in the House S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Color of Optimism, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crucial Taunt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightbulb Not Included S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schwing! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stray Capacitance S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Fred Berman
Page Views: 944 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Wear your optimistic-colored clothing for this one. For me that's orange. Follow a line of three-finger pockets up to a nice flake by the second bolt. Climb hard moves well out left via the "piranha" hold to a big hole and the third clip.
Make a big span move to a sharp-edged hold out up and right, then punch it up to a nice dish and the fourth bolt. Engaging, lower-angle climbing goes up and then out right to the arête. Slap up the edge of the arête through one more surprisingly tricky section enjoying the fine, airy position to the anchors.

The holds through the crux by the third bolt look temporary, unfortunately. However, a number of climbers have pulled really hard on them already so we're hopeful they stick around--it's a great line up a nice face.

Location

The only line up the west-facing, streaked wall of the Easy Bake Alcove.

Protection

9 bolts to chains with biners.

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