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Routes in Easy Bake Alcove

Autumnal Bliss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Babies in the House S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Color of Optimism, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crucial Taunt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightbulb Not Included S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schwing! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stray Capacitance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 687 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Schwing! is the four-bolt direct start to Crucial Taunt, naturally.

Start directly below the anchors for Crucial Taunt and climb up a small pillar to a nice stance on top of the pillar. Get psyched for the fun V4 boulder problem crux above. Crank up past a superb pocket to difficult moves to a sloper on the right. Keep it going for a few more tricky and difficult moves to the fourth bolt and then easier climbing on the steep finish of Crucial Taunt. The crux boulder problem favors taller climbers and is more difficult for shorter climbers.

There are two bolts out left after the fourth bolt that allow one to finish on Lightbulb Not Included instead if Crucial Taunt is occupied.

Location

Almost smack in the middle of the alcove heading up the smooth, clean rock.

Protection

Four bolts on this line and finish with a couple more clips on either Crucial Taunt or Lightbulb Not Included. The third clip is a bit reachy (to keep the climber off the small ledge below) so climbers may want to hang draws on this route from Crucial Taunt

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