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Routes in Sunshine Roof

Deviance (aka 5.10 roof) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Double Take (aka. 5.9 Roof) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Last Waltz, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kevin Bentz, Mario Cantu
Page Views: 1,519 total · 29/month
Shared By: LovePas on Mar 21, 2014 with updates from Nick Bernal
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.

Location [Suggest Change]

Take main trail from Sex Canyon down towards the river. Continue to spur and stay right as if your going to Dead Cats. Look up and you will see roof to your right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to anchors. Stick clip is recommended. First bolt is high on ledge, not to mention just high off the ground, possibly 15-20' high off the ground.

Description [Suggest Change]

The left route on the light colored wall of Sunshine Roof. The opening moves on the dirty slab suck...but get past it on thin moves and the climbing gets fun quick. Make sure you have long draws or runners for bolts 3 and 4 to minimize drag. Big holds over the roof to pull...route is not as intimidating as it looks from below. On a sunny day, this wall gets hot! I see why its called sunshine roof...Wall faces SW and it's concave, it just traps heat! Great winter wall.

Location [Suggest Change]

Take main trail from Sex Canyon down towards the river. Continue to spur and stay right as if your going to Dead Cats. Look up and you will see roof to your right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to anchors. Stick clip is recommended. First bolt is high on ledge, not to mention just high off the ground, possibly 15-20' high off the ground.

Photos

Russell Bangert  
5.10d
This route is a 10d, not a 10a Sep 30, 2011
LovePas
 
LovePas  
 
This route is considered on to be located on the Sunshine Roof Wall in John Hogge's Austin Climbing Guide book. Mar 21, 2014
dholte
South San Francisco, CA
 
dholte   South San Francisco, CA
 
Compared to other moderate routes I've done at Reimer's, this one is excellent. Nov 2, 2014
Grant Freeman
Dallas, TX
 
Grant Freeman   Dallas, TX
 
I finally had the chance to climb this route and I was not disappointed! It's a fun route. If you don't have a stick clip, there is a 6th bolt below the starting ledge you can use.

I also noticed that there is another set of bolts going left of Deviance, looks like it shares the first bolt. It's not in the guide book. Does anyone know what route this is? Oct 17, 2016
Jake Cantu
  5.10a
Jake Cantu  
  5.10a
Really fun route with really fun, juggy roof pulling. Definitely one of the best easy 10s in the park. Oct 25, 2016
Alex Zalmat
  5.10a PG13
Alex Zalmat  
  5.10a PG13
One of the best routes in the park. Definitely a 5.10a as all the holds are pretty much jugs (I've seen suggestions that it should be upgraded), but the grade really doesn't matter because this route is a classic and has a breathtaking view of the Pedernales river canyon at the top. Mar 29, 2018

More About Deviance (aka 5.10 roof)

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