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Routes in Left Cave

Buddha Belly S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark Side, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dreams Never End S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Effects Of The High T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
First Amendment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flavor of the Minute S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ghengis Warm Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grainstorm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
King Size T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Perfect Moment T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seismic Wave S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Special Forces T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Termination Dust S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 397 total, 9/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Mar 20, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Dreams is a fun climb located a few climbs to the right of Seismic Wave. The first pitch is most commonly done. It begins below a short crack in a bulge above your head. Climb over the bulge to get to a rest, then climb to the shared anchor on First Amendment, Grainstorm, Buddha. Additional pitches exist after the first anchor.

Pitch 1: 5.11d. Climb some bouldery moves to a good rest, move left and climb through sustained moves ending on a crack and some easy moves to the chains. 70ft

Pitch 2: 5.11b. Climb on good holds left of the chains to a right leaning ramp, be very careful of loose blocks. Pass 7 bolts on the ramp and exit out left on steep climbing (3 more bolts) to a two/three bolt anchor. 100ft

PItch 3: 5.11d. climb left on good holds and good feet to a technical and difficult corner. Stay direct on the corner and move past the crux using crimps and compression magic. End at a 2 bolt anchor. 40ft. There is another bolt visible from the anchor but it is missing a hanger, I imagine this would take you to the top of the wall.

Either rap with 2 60M ropes to the ground. Or rap straight down to the clearly visible anchor a second rap will take you to the ground. Both of these raps are largely free hanging.

Protection

Bolts, Bolted Anchors

Photos

C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.11d
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.11d
Wave-bolts installed on P1 04/2017. May 3, 2017
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
or place some small gear in the low crack after the first bolt... probably like .3 to .5 or so... I'd stick clip though... Jun 2, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
  5.11d
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
  5.11d
Stick clip the second bolt as the first one is low enough that it doesn't protect the climbing to the second. May 30, 2014