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A Midsummer Night's Dream

5.11a, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
FA: John Eminger, Bret Pierce, Nov. 1992
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Sunshine Wall > Near End of Sunshine…

Description

May not be popular because of the chossy crack start, but a fun climb non the less.

Location

This marks the left end of the twin cracks area and the far right end of the Coyote wall.

Protection

gear from 2-4" and 8 bolts up the column face, bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Loren Foss on the lead
[Hide Photo] Loren Foss on the lead
Finishing in style on A Midsummer Night's Dream
[Hide Photo] Finishing in style on A Midsummer Night's Dream
Ben excited to finally be to the bolts.<br>
[Hide Photo] Ben excited to finally be to the bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun pillar route that lures you into thinking it's a cakewalk, until the last 1/4 of the climb! Dec 15, 2015
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] one #4 or #3 is all you need. The crack is maybe 10-15feet. Nov 25, 2018
Ian Edison
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Guide book says go up left crack (#3 cam) on broken pillar, but getting to the first bolt is a death fall. I went up the right crack (5.7ish) and used a #1, #2, and a #3 which I bumped up for about 10', getting from the #3 to the bolt is easier from the right side, but still a death fall (20' runout) with one committie move. A #4 could protect another 5' or so. Rest of the climb is bolted well and fun. Crux in the last 2-3 bolts. Mar 31, 2019
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] 4 star Vantage arete once you clip the first bolt.

The original start is definitely R, low 5th to the first bolt with no pro after a #4, if you fall ur gonna die. Or break your legs if you stop on the pedestal.
Right crack might be the way to go, haven't tried it.

My first 11a onsight that I can only credit to thinking that if I don't, I'll have to do the start again :D Oct 18, 2020