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Routes in Middle Elden Canyon

8 Nikkis Tall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bat Wings S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cheep and Juicy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Musical Skinheads T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pazuzu T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Sombrero De Droga T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sucky the Cow S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: J.Snyder
Page Views: 321 total, 7/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Mar 17, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Pazuzu is a beautiful, technical and thin pitch that climbs with a little bit of spice. Named after the demon of wind and drought, this one might leave you with a thirst for more.

An easy enough start leads up to a stance. From the stance reach out and blind place crux gear. Take precautions to place this gear correctly...

From stance, transfer into and underneath the cruxy headwall. Move through the steep and technical boulder problem to a leaning stance and eventually into the mantle.

Location

Head into Middle Elden and take trails to obvious orange buttress. Pazuzu starts on a ramping dihedral and heads up towards orange and white headwall.

Protection

Gear used:
.5 C4
.75 C4
#3 C4
#2 BD Stopper
Camp Slider Nut #2
#000 C3
Runners

2 Bolt anchor after mantle

Photos

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Some media-spray from the FA of Pazuzu
vimeo.com/88071473 Mar 17, 2014