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Routes in Kaaterskill Falls

Gottlieb's Roof T WI4+ M4
Kaaterskill Falls WI4-5 X
Kaaterskill Falls - Lower T,TR WI3
Kaaterskill Flow T,TR WI3
Type: Ice, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,020 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Dunn on Mar 17, 2014
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The biggest, scariest waterfall in the Catskill Park. This route takes quite some time to form considering the high flow of water. Look for the second pitch to touch down following a prolonged cold spell. Also, expect to be scared out of your wits. In the best conditions the ice will be shifting and settling in an orchestra of death. This is one of the most dangerous routes in the park in terms of objective hazards.

Protection

Takes screws.
Eric Lutz  
 
I followed the Crux last year and led the top out. Planning to lead the whole thing if Ma Nature cooperate!! Nov 25, 2015
If you're not intimidated by this pitch, you're just not paying attention!

If this is on your tic list, be patient and wait for it to come into something resembling safe condition. It might take a few years... Mar 4, 2015
TheIceManCometh
Albany, NY
 
TheIceManCometh   Albany, NY
 
02/16/15 -- The veritable crown jewel of the Catskills. It was finally IN for the first time this season. It needed least two consecutive weeks of single digits or lower each night and never getting over freezing in the day.

On 2/16 it was 5 degrees at 9am and it rose to 22 by 3pm and sunny. We were on the upper falls by 10am.

We held our breath the entire time. While first climbing Lower Falls, a 3 inch horizontal crack opened up 3/4 of the way up. Two five inch cracks opened up on the left side of the Upper Falls while we climbed that sucker. And in the top section of the falls you could see water rushing down behind the ice. The flowing water was visible if you stood anywhere on the left hand side of the amphitheater.

We climbed the entire upper falls in one pitch. About 125' from the base of the cone to the top of the falls. Used 8 screws plus 2 for the belay at the top of the falls. Could have used 2 more. Had to run out the last 50' with only 2 screws, but by then it was "only" 3+. About half way up there was an overhang you had to negotiate. It was the psychological crux as it was hard to get ice placements as you swung your body out -- fortunately the ice was somewhat chandeliered so there were good hooks.

For the descent we rapped down to the top of the lower tier and then walked off (climber's left). For the rappel, we walked (again climber's left) about half way along the edge of the amphitheater and found a tree very close to the edge. A 60m rope just made it down (if you include the rope stretch under body weight). Feb 16, 2015