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Rock Opera

5.11c PG13, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Jim Taylor & Ian Boyer
W Virginia > New River Gorge > Summersville (G… > Long Point

Description

This route is really a great route but is not good for people where 5.11 is their limit. Climb through some mud covered rock to some not so fun climbing. Clip the third bolt and then start looking for some gear placements, because without them you would come very close to the ground if you fell and the climbing is not that easy. This route seems pretty sustained but the spread out bolt job makes a lot of people shy away from it. It's pretty sustained but AFTER you clip the fourth bolt you get some very interesting and super fun moves through the small and sharp crimps. Clip the last bolt and then run about 15 feet to the anchors, for short people you are going to be in a spot to either crimp and high step or jump to a flat rail. Head to the chains and realize you won't ever do this thing again.

Location

About 100 yards to the left of the slab approach.
Lower down.

Protection

5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. Take some smaller gear for the bad runouts.