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New Shatterhand

5.13a, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Brock Landers
California > Central Coast > Hwy 166/Silly Rock > Owl Tor

Description

If your looking to add even more hard climbing to what was already a desperate crimpy pump fest, try New Shatterhand instead of the Old.

This direct start adds a plethora of rad holds to the fun.
More hard crimping down low, a desperate pinch, a crazy looking brain sloper and other cool embedded rocks, pockets and more great holds get you warmed up for the top.

This route has two distinct cruxes.

The mid way point crux will have you wishing you could lock off like John Brzenk in his heyday.

And of course the crux right at the end just waiting to spit you off.

When your eye level with the anchor and pumped out of your mind you'll be contemplating if you have the gumption to pull out a mouth full of slack to get the job done.

If you blow it trying to clip the anchor your going to catch some serious air.
But don't let that stop you, this new line makes an Old classic even better.

Location

Next to Power Of Eating, on the right.
Look for the big sloper that looks like a brain 8ft up.

Protection

fixed draws

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stretching it out.
[Hide Photo] Stretching it out.
Mellow till the crux
[Hide Photo] Mellow till the crux
Micah looking like Brzenk on the opening moves.
[Hide Photo] Micah looking like Brzenk on the opening moves.
Brzenk crushing
[Hide Photo] Brzenk crushing

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
[Hide Comment] Don't do this:

youtu.be/P5_iYGyp8Gw Jun 6, 2017