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Routes in Icehouse Canyon

Hobo Route, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Hoop Dreams T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Irregular Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Painslut T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Submarine Dog T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Westside Connection T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 230 ft
FA: Tina Turner and Bob Vila
Page Views: 395 total · 8/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Mar 14, 2014
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route winds its way up to the top of Sugarledge via the west face. Sugarledge is on the west side of Sugarloaf Peak, about halfway up and on the right side of the screefield running up from the bridge at the base (check your map). Finding the crag may prove challenging the first time, but it really is simple to get there. Really good quality rock with a somewhat-strange character to it. The 'crux' is down low and involves sorta mantling up on a little bulge thing. The higher you get, the easier it gets. Can be very run out but again, it's all easy 5th up high.

There's a good anchor just below the ledge, climber's left when nearing the end of the pitch. Some cracks in good rock.

This is a cool route to a rad ledge with great position and a little exposure. The ledge is super nice and a great place to spend time with friends.

Please keep the ledge super duper clean or John Mendenhall's ghost will totally kick your ass, and I'll get mad but it's not like I'll catch you doing it or anything so just leave no trace at all and be nice, okay?

Location

Descend via a class 3-4 route on the north side, down through some trees. Follow the path of least resistance!

Protection

-Single rack to #3 with plenty o' little cams. Could probably get away with single to #1.
-70m rope
-Buncha slings

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