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Mr. Duck

V7, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 75 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Central Utah > Joe's Valley > Left Fork > Right Sign Area
Warning Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock! DetailsDrop down

Description

This is an excellent problem (despite being a lip traverse) on high quality sandstone. Harder and more beta intensive than it looks.

Sit start on the far right side of the face, with your hands mathched on a hold, right hand crimp, left hand blocky pinch. Pull on and slap up and left to the lip. Traverse up and left along the slippery lip to a jug at the apex. Finish with a slightly committing mantle.

Location

Continue up the hill past the turn off to the Wills of Fire boulder. After passing the boulder on your right (Broken Down Palace), turn right up the hill on an indistinct path. This brings you to a boulder with a diagonal crack (Baraka). Mr. Duck is on the boulder just above, on the south face of the boulder.

Protection

3 pads and a spotter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ryan on the third or so move of Mr. Duck.
[Hide Photo] Ryan on the third or so move of Mr. Duck.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Corey Banks
Chattanooga, TN
[Hide Comment] Mistakenly started this on two crimps below the fat pinch. Hard sequence shifted to removing feet from below and placing the high right foot after gaining the lip. Still fun, but it's basically a lay down start. Apr 21, 2018
stev spooner
Lander
  V6
[Hide Comment] Wow, it's the Mr Moran of Joe's but trending the other way. Do them both, and duel wield V6 sloper lip traverse and hard mantels. Nov 18, 2019
Andy L
 
Y Qiao
CA
 
[Hide Comment] short girl beta: youtube.com/watch?v=YirX-6m… May 20, 2021
Alex Murphy
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Since we were confused by the start hold description figured I’d add what we heard came from Steven, which is that you start matched on the brick pinch. Right hand is on the “crimp” portion & left hand pinching next to it. Adds some punch to the first move vs using the side pull seen in videos etc. Mar 20, 2022
Christian Sanchez
Pasadena, CA
Paul Ahnn
Washington D.C.
  V7
Scott B
Colorado
 
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
  V7
[Hide Comment] Beta at 7:09 of this video: m.youtube.com/watch?v=a7ucf… Oct 30, 2023
Arthur Kock
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] It felt a little unnatural to sit start this, I started from a small crouch with my hands all the way at the bottom. Seems a lot of people start it this way too. I’m on the shorter side tho, 5’7”. Apr 18, 2024
Elle Delesky
Denver, CO