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America's Playground V1-2 5 |
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Beyond Life V10 7C+ |
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Beyond Life (Sit) V12 8A+ |
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Godsend V9 7C |
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Kill List V11 8A PG13 |
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Lumberjack V8 7B |
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Mr. Duck V7 7A+ |
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Pagan Poetry V11+ 8A |
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Shadow of Death V5 6C |
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Shadow of Death Sit V7 7A+ |
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Snaggle Tooth V8-9 7B+ |
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Sunshine Day Dream V7- 7A+ |
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They Call Him Jordan V8 7B |
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Tubesnake Boogie V8 7B |
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Two Towers V6 7A |
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We Call Him Michael V10-11 8A |
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Wills Afire V6 7A |
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Worst Case Scenario V9 7C PG13 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,657 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Nat Smale on Mar 14, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aeon Aki, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Don't climb on wet rock!
Details
Attention:
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Don't climb on wet rock! Sandstone is a porous rock type that can absorb a lot of water. It can lose up to 75% of its strength while wet, making it easy to snap off holds and irreparably damage classic climbs. Wait 48 to 72hrs after precipitation. If the ground is still damp then the rock is still wet. A great way to check for precipitation history before traveling to Joe's is to go to this site-
climate.usu.edu/mchd/dashbo…
and under "Data Charts" click the "Precipitation" tab. Make sure the surface wetness is 0 before climbing.
Description
This is an excellent problem (despite being a lip traverse) on high quality sandstone. Harder and more beta intensive than it looks.
Sit start on the far right side of the face, with your hands mathched on a hold, right hand crimp, left hand blocky pinch. Pull on and slap up and left to the lip. Traverse up and left along the slippery lip to a jug at the apex. Finish with a slightly committing mantle.
Sit start on the far right side of the face, with your hands mathched on a hold, right hand crimp, left hand blocky pinch. Pull on and slap up and left to the lip. Traverse up and left along the slippery lip to a jug at the apex. Finish with a slightly committing mantle.
Location
Continue up the hill past the turn off to the Wills of Fire boulder. After passing the boulder on your right (Broken Down Palace), turn right up the hill on an indistinct path. This brings you to a boulder with a diagonal crack (Baraka). Mr. Duck is on the boulder just above, on the south face of the boulder.
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