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Routes in Sterling Pass

Bellyful of Moonshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Best Laid Plans T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Confederacy of Dunces T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Counterfeit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Der Ficken (aka Jesus on a Rubber Cross) T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Do Wrong Right T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heart and Soul S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Moonshiner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nobodys Dirty Business T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pocket full of Horses T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safecracker- aka "Firecracker" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sterling Sliver T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hoffman/Frye
Page Views: 658 total, 15/month
Shared By: Dean Hoffman on Mar 13, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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The Goods

Right off the trail, obvious beautiful steep hands in a corner! The only thing that would make this better is if it were longer!!! This route likely will be sandy and p1 will feel quite adventurous to all but the most seasoned Sedona climbers.
P1-Wild stemming with protecting in a tips/tight finger crack, place em deep! Crack takes good gear up to a small tree, I believe right above the tree is a good .5 Camalot placement. Figure out how to get out of the stem and into the tight hand/hand crack finally into a good stance. Clip one bolt and climb delicately through a slabby move or two into standard Sedona tiptoeing, move up and through a small roof/cave to the sweet belay ledge. Belay off a #2 Camalot and one bolt. 5.10ish
P2-Namesake pitch from the ledge its pretty damn obvious, hand jam yer face off through 35ft or so of amazingly steep crack, amazing hands in a corner! Pretty sure the rack was 1 or 2#1s, 2#2s (maybe three for the onsight), and 2#3s. Expect an exciting, sandy mantle top-out to a two bolt rap station. Rap with one 70m


Location

We are calling the wall above Counterfeit the "Chutes and Ladders Wall" due to all the false starts and dead ends we have encountered. Bellyful is about 2 switch backs up from Counterfeit on the south side of the trail. You should end up about 10 yards above the base of the first pitch, bushwhack down to the nice little perch and blast off! Rap from top of P2 with one 70m rope. May need one rap ring or quick link or leaver biner... (sorry wish I could remember if we left it perfect or not!)

Protection

If you are up in Sterling you'll probably have a double set, but you can probably do this with a single set to .75, doubles 1-3 Camalot, one extra #2 for the anchor on p1. Long slings for the top of P1 would also make you happy.

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